I wasn’t planning on getting any panchakarma treatments until I traveled further south to Kerala, but then I stumbled upon Kaivalyadhama in Mumbai while searching the web for a place to buy a neti pot. I was in the midst of a terrible head cold and was desperate to clear my sinuses with some neti pot action, but upon visiting their site, I learned they also had panchakarma treatments.
One such treatment is called Nasya, and they list the benefits as follows:
It is a wonderful treatment to remove the doshas or congestion in the ear, nose & throat. It cures problems of the respiratory track like chronic allergic asthma, cold, cough, etc.
It relieves mental fatigue, nervous disorders like depression, insomnia, epilepsy and insanity. It is also useful in problems of excessive hair fall and premature graying. It helps to induce calm and quiet sleep. It sharpens the intellect by enhancing nervous system.
I’ve also been having problems with insomnia since my arrival in India, so the treatment sounded like a good one for me. I emailed them on Sunday, and they got back to me Tuesday morning to let me know they had availability that day. They also confirmed they had ceramic neti pots for sale (only 40 rs!), so I hopped in a cab and made my way to their facility conveniently located on Marine Drive across from Chowpatty.
After the receptionist did a quick intake, I was shown into the doctor’s office. Of all the doctors of Ayurveda I have seen, I liked this woman especially for her compassion in addition to technical knowledge. She worked with me on my short time frame to compile a couple hours’ worth of treatments to help me clear some of the sinus congestion lingering from my cold. I knew I wanted the nasya, which she confirmed was a good treatment for me at that time, and she added a full-body massage—abhyangam—with herbal steam. I didn’t argue with her, especially as the price for all three treatments was only 1800 rs in addition to her 250 rs consultation fee.
The panchakarma (PK) therapist was a sturdy woman (and they only do same-sex massages there, which is a hallmark of Ayurvedic authenticity) with kind eyes and strong hands. She showed me to the PK room and had me sit in a chair for the head massage with herb-infused oil. After about ten minutes of this heavenly treatment, told me to strip down naked and lie on the massage table, where she expertly rubbed down my entire body with long Swedish-style strokes and a lot more medicated oil. I was in heaven.
Next came the steam, which meant climbing into a box with doors in front and up top that folded shut around me to leave only my head sticking out. The steam became pretty intense after a couple of minutes, so I had to pop open one of the top lids to release some of the heat. The PK therapist had assured me she was within earshot if I became uncomfortable, so I didn’t feel trapped.
After the steam, it was time for my nasya treatment. The thought of oil going up my nose seemed strange, but since I had mastered the neti pot, I wasn’t too concerned. She first massaged my entire face with ghee, which was lovely if not a little bit weird smelling, and then gently tilted back my head to receive about five drops of oil in each nostril. As soon as I could taste the herbs in the back of my throat, she stuck cotton in my ears to protect them from the air after the nasya (the ears, nose, and throat passages are all connected) and told me to wait at least three hours before showering.
Ideally I should have gone straight home to rest, but it was my last night in Bombay, and I already had plans to see a movie with my friend. When I emerged from the movie, my friend pointed out that my neck and shoulders were glistening with the oil that had dripped down from my hair, so I’d recommend going straight home after treatment if for no other reason than to prevent the oil from running down your back and staining your clothes.
The center also offers yoga classes and is renowned for its yoga teacher certification and mission to understand yoga from a scientific as well as spiritual perspective. They can create yoga routines that are designed to treat specific conditions, so I plan to visit them next time I’m in Mumbai to see what Ayur-yogic asanas they recommend for my dosha type. And another hour-long massage doesn’t sound bad either.
